blueing on your own looks straight forward.
Is that the best bet?
and does it affect the vaiue negatively?
Thanks!
Yes, maybe, and yes.
The maybe depends on what the reasoning is behind rebluing the gun is. Is it a sentimental family heirloom gun that you want to keep in good shape so you can still shoot it. Is it a beat up mismatched milsurp that you just got and want to freshen up so you can use it in the woods or at the range w/o worrying about the finish? Is it simply ugly?
If worry of value is even remotely floating around in the back of your mind, the best advice is: DON'T!! thumb1
Quote from: running-man on April 21, 2017, 01:42:48 PM
Yes, maybe, and yes.
The maybe depends on what the reasoning is behind rebluing the gun is. Is it a sentimental family heirloom gun that you want to keep in good shape so you can still shoot it. Is it a beat up mismatched milsurp that you just got and want to freshen up so you can use it in the woods or at the range w/o worrying about the finish? Is it simply ugly?
If worry of value is even remotely floating around in the back of your mind, the best advice is: DON'T!! thumb1
Its a 62 para. All matching. The one I showed in another thread.
Thanks!
there was a tiny tine bits of rust that i took off with WD40 and a copper pad. It seemed to work
well. And there was small spot with some scratches. The rifle is excellent condition. Not even sure
it was fired.
I agree with RM.
When in doubt, leave it alone. I've never cold blued anything but I've seen the result and you can usually see the difference from the surrounding blue color. In addition, if there are scratches or pits deep enough to leave scars in the metal the fact that they have blue in them is a giveaway that it's been reblued.
Keep it oiled and the rust should not return or remain active.
My SKS NR had some light rust freckles when I got it, now they are just well oiled rust freckles. :)
Quote from: Phosphorus32 on April 21, 2017, 02:11:19 PM
I agree with RM.
When in doubt, leave it alone. I've never cold blued anything but I've seen the result and you can usually see the difference from the surrounding blue color. In addition, if there are scratches or pits deep enough to leave scars in the metal the fact that they have blue in them is a giveaway that it's been reblued.
will take this sound advice
makes sense
plus it is minimal
Thanks!
Quote from: running-man on April 21, 2017, 01:42:48 PM
Yes, maybe, and yes.
The maybe depends on what the reasoning is behind rebluing the gun is. Is it a sentimental family heirloom gun that you want to keep in good shape so you can still shoot it. Is it a beat up mismatched milsurp that you just got and want to freshen up so you can use it in the woods or at the range w/o worrying about the finish? Is it simply ugly?
If worry of value is even remotely floating around in the back of your mind, the best advice is: DON'T!! thumb1
Thanks RM. I am taking yer advice! Much appreciated.
Quote from: Greasemonkey on April 21, 2017, 02:21:34 PM
Keep it oiled and the rust should not return or remain active.
My SKS NR had some light rust freckles when I got it, now they are just well oiled rust freckles. :)
WD40 or oil?
Or does it matter?
and i use copper pads
WD40 is a great water repellent. Having said that, it is not viscous at all and contains a very volatile hydrocarbon which thins the main oil hydrocarbon during application (i.e. it evaporates after a time). For a firearm that is not regularly (like every month) brought out and looked over, I'd suggest going with something that will give a more viscous coating like straight SAE30 motor oil.
I worked at Lockheed Martin Astronautics in Denver for a while. For the Atlas rockets, the main LOX and RP-1 tanks that made up the rocket body was all one unit made of rolled & welded stainless steel sheet. They were terrified about corrosion of any kind so they created WD40 specifically to coat these rockets back in the 50's. Anyhow, they still used the stuff when I was there in the 90's and it was one guy's job to open a 55 gal. drum of WD40, coat a rag, attach the rag to the end of a mop like contraption, and then proceed to coat the entire outer surface with a layer of WD40. The guy was 25 feet up in the air walking down the side of this 60' rocket body (on a ridiculously slippery surface of WD40), so he had to be anchored in with a fall arrestor and whatnot. Once he finished one rocket body, time was up for the next body to get coated and so on. They had to be coated at set intervals if I remember correctly. Talk about your job security!
Mobil 1 thumb1
I use RIG gun grease on once rusted/pitted spots after treating them with #0000 steel wool and Rem Oil.
The stock on the para is darker than 1990 sks i recently saw.
The Para was a refurb stock 1962. The rest original except bayo. Spike.
Is it because the stock is might be older? Or could the wood be different?