I purchased a very nice all numbers matching norinco a while back. The furniture of the rifle sits in a descent “jungle stock” with a nice Bakelite French tickler handgaurd. Anyhow, the rifle is fairly pristine except for one thing, when it was imported ( at least I think that’s when it happened) the bayonet lug and cleaning rod holder, were ground off and reblued. So now I am thinking about replacing the front site assembly to fix this, then add a spike bayonet as well as cleaning rod. So where is the best place to find such an item... are they hard to find? How much would I expect to pay for it? Sorry for so many questions.. and am hoping this is the correct forum in which to ask this. Thanks in advance!
can try apex, aim, Natchez and even eBay.
Thanks I will try those... man parts used to be so easy to find.. now seems like it’s getting harder and harder...
If purchasing a used one, make sure it is of the era that belongs on the gun. Find out whether it's date would dictate using a lightening cut vs. non lightening cut type, which may help ensure the pins line up better...and look correct for restoration purposes.
ALSO make sure to get a good look at the bayonet lug, be certain they weren't blunted during removal, these are a bear to remove sometimes...and blunted lug tips will lead to a perpetual saggy bayonet.
It is also a bonus if you can get the original pins in it...which usually leads to buying one with the tip of the barrel still in it....which is no treat to remove either...in fact it kind of is worse. Those do sell for cheaper usually, so if you are good for a little effort, you can save a few bucks, and get the pins to boot. Plus having the barrel stub can help you check to see if the pin grooves match before you get the new one on and realize they DON'T line up and have to bang the thing back off again. Finally make sure you at the very least don't buy a stripped one, pressing the drums in properly is no picnic, plus buying the drum and sight post in addition will likely up the total cost by $20ish too.
It's interesting that you have a jungle stock with a French Tickler style handguard, chances are this was done stateside by a previous owner, the stocks were easier to find than the handguards that went with them, and you tend to see the French Ticklers available more frequently...you might check to see at the above mentioned places for a more traditional style bakelite handguard to go with the stock. I seem to recall seeing some available somewhere recently. There is the possibility that the French Tickler is original though...does the takedown lever have the tab on the top or bottom side?
Knowing what factory and how many millions the serial number is could help narrow down the right parts.
Man I had no idea that there was so many issues that could arise from doing the site/barrel lug switch. I may not even do it. I was crunching numbers and really am not sure if I want to put too much more money into it. I gave 275$ for it. I put another 50$ into it or more... I’m getting close to the top value of a 24million serial number, at least around my area. I may just keep it and shoot it. Maybe someday I can run across a clunker with a good barrel and swap them around. Never know I spose... thanks for the info!
Swapping barrels would be considerable more difficult. You would need to locate one with the same indexing for the threads (a stamped number both on the barrel and the receiver) Otherwise it would tighten with the barrel components askew from their intended positions.
I probably painted a pretty dire picture of a worst case scenario in replacing the front sight. Yours being a 24m /26\ will likely be easier to deal with. Some of the lesser output factories used less than stellar components and are far less precise. Yours would require a non lightning cut sight. The main thing is the pins lining up. I have had the difference of less than half a millimeter, drilled out the tiny, bit of metal that blocked the second pin from going in, and damned if I can get the second pin in anyway without canting the sight. One pin will allow it to be on straight though. I would be fine with it...but it is a late 49 possibly early 50 Russian...I want it to be right! banghead1 That one came to me just as yours did, with a neutered front sight...I replaced it twice, the first time, like an idiot...I did it completely oblivious that it was a lightening cut sight....removed it, ordered another proper sight, neither want to go on without canting.
Even removing an original sight and putting it back on can be a little tricky. Those suckers are pressed on very snug. Sometimes the pins can be seemingly impossible to drive out too. One I have that has a GARBAGE quality sight that will not hold up a bayonet, I cannot for the life of me drive the pins out of...despite having a good sight to put onto it. It is among the crappiest built SKSs I have ever seen...with several cast components...including the sight. I am sure with all the proper tooling, it wouldn't be as difficult.
If you do opt to try replace it, a good first step might be to see if you can even remove the original sight. That way if you cannot get it off, you at least are not invested in the replacement. (Like I am :P ) One day...I will get angry enough at this one to swap it out...If I don't go the easy route, and chop the barrel and put on a Prince50 sight instead. :)
Thanks Justin, if I ever opt to do that swap, I'll more than likely have my gunsmith buddy do it for me. He has a press and the patience to do it...
Justin, u just convinced me to make damn sure I get one with the pins! Now, if I can just locate a decent one...
I just did the same swap on a nice Paratrooper with the neutered lugs and guides. I picked up a used site removal tool from Ramblin84, which made the whole swap out a breeze. Now I've got a sweet spiker Para, also with a French tickler 8). The neutered unit is going on a Bubba hack job. The barrel was cut to 18.25", and there's enough original muzzle shank OD left to slip on the "doctored" FSB. I'm also going to use a Ramline slip on brake. With the calipers out, I discovered that the brake is cut about 1/2" deeper than the normal barrel tip....so I can turn the cut FSB around, and slip the brake/site combo down close to the edge of the barrel undercut...I hope. It will put the muzzle face about 1/4" from the ports, and give the barrel OAL about stock. I hope it doesn't turn out to be a turd. PAX
Sounds like a fun project PAX, let us know how she turns out with photos! thumb1
Quote from: running-man on December 01, 2018, 09:06:00 AM
Sounds like a fun project PAX, let us know how she turns out with photos! thumb1
I will. I'm way behind in my picture documentation of some acquisitions:
Winchester M1 & bayo (receiver & some parts)
unissued 7mm FN49 with sling & bayo
spiker Para - receiver, bolt, carrier, and cover match, mag & TG match each other (traded 2 mongrel M44s for it)
2 blade Paras - one is NIB, the other was listed as just an "SKS" (and priced as such) I swooped in on that little guy, the first responder
a Kengs Hunter Para without the rail, has a Para length blade bayo slot filled in-appears factory, cleanly done with the same crappy finish
the afore mentioned 18 incher with no front sight & camo painted stock???
jungle stocked /416\
the last rifle from LKermit, a Franken build---turned out nice, even if it's all wrong
03-A3 Remington sporter missing a front sight (donor for a Santa Fe receiver gun)
1916 Spanish Mauser carbine resto--phosphate & Tung oil (got this cause I came up on 500 rds of 7mm)
H&R sportsman
Winchester T75
dance2 PAX
Well heck,
Right before seeing this thread, I was looking in contempt at the aforementioned sight, and couldn't take it anymore...so I used the inspiration gained here... and there went my day. :)
It took a blowtorch, which yielded some kind of white stuff oozing from under it.....it took a grinder to keep sharpening down my punch, which is about an inch and a half shorter, but dangit. I got the sucker off...and the replacement holds up a bayonet just proper. 8) The second pin unfortunately knocks it off kilter, so it's gonna come out and either remain vacant or get a roll pin that is a bit more forgiving. I predict a stubbier punch by this time tomorrow.
Removing the actual sight was a breeze, once the pins were out and whatever I BBQed out from under the FSB, it came off with a few whacks with a light rubber mallet. Just a few minor parts and this hopeless mess of a five year project is starting to look like a respectable shooter.
I unfortunately have to stand by my previous statement that the pin placement is crucial. Either that or I am just really unlucky at the business end of an SKS...but the survivable kind of unlucky. chuckles1
Justin, did you happen to notice if the white substance remained white, or change color after it dried?
Quote from: Matchka on December 04, 2018, 02:38:28 AM
Justin, did you happen to notice if the white substance remained white, or change color after it dried?
[/quote
It remained white...and wiped off easily after cooling.